Friday, January 2, 2015

Meathead Kaiju Pacific Rim Crochet Pattern


Precious meathead baby <3 I've wanted to make a kaiju pattern ever since I made Lemmyloop's beautiful Otachi. After reading the "From Out of the Ocean Risen" series by bluestar I knew that kaiju had to be Meathead. Hope you enjoy, fellow Kaiju Groupies! 


The following pattern was written and designed by me and is copyrighted. You may not sell or reproduce this pattern in any way. Do not claim this pattern or plush as your own design. You may not transmit or distribute this pattern by any means. You may not sell this pattern. You may not sell what you make from this pattern. Please respect this, I spent a very long time designing this bag and pattern, there is a great deal of effort and love put into this. Thank you very much for your understanding.

Read pattern carefully before starting, particularly the instructions at the beginning of the pattern. There are also many tips throughout the pattern and in the assembly section that will help you when making different pieces, be sure to read those too!
 
 
Materials:
 
* Dark green yarn

* Burgundy/dark red yarn (small amount)

*Small amounts of black, yellow/gold

*Large yarn needle for sewing pieces together
 
* F hook and G hook
 
*Straight pins for pinning pieces on before sewing them on

*Reptile/cat safety eyes, I think they are 12mm but not sure as there were just loose in my craft bin. Anywhere from 6mm to 12 would probably look good depending on if you want him to look cute or  more serious. 

*optional: wire or pipe cleaners for the horns, see horn pattern for more info, safety eyes (anywhere from 6mm to 9mm should work, smallish ones) or doll joints for arm joints (see arm pattern for more info)

 
Note: there is no gauge for this pattern. The only thing that is important is that you have a tight stitch when crocheting. If you use the recommended hooks it should be fine but if you are someone who crochets more loosely you may want to reduce the hook size accordingly.
 
 
This pattern is worked in rounds (unless otherwise noted) and may use any the following techniques/abbreviations:
Sc- single crochet
inc- increase
dec- decrease, particularly you should use the invisible decrease if you know how to do it
sc in each sc or work even- single crochet in each single crochet, don't add any increases or decreases
R- round or row
Ch- chain
hdc- half double crochet
hdc inc- increase using hdc
hdc dec- decrease using hdc
# sc or sc #- for example 5 sc or sc 5 both mean to crochet in the next 5 sc, with one single crochet in each.
Repeat (*)- repeat what is between the asterisks * until you come to the end of the round, unless otherwise indicated
ring- magic ring. If you cannot do this technique then you may substitute this: ch 2 and sc however many were supposed to go in the ring into the second ch. However this will leave a small hole in the piece, this is why the magic ring is preferred, it leaves no visible hole. Many tutorials on how to do the magic ring are available online.
 
The numbers in parenthesis at the end of each row are the number of stitches you should have when that row is done. Mark the start of each round with a marker and move this marker as you complete rows/rounds.

Body (starting at head, use G hook and green yarn)
Round1- 6 sc in ring (6)
R2- inc in all sc (12)
R3- *sc, inc* (18)
R4- *2sc, inc* (24)
R5-6- work even (24)
R7- *6sc, inc*, sc in last 3 sc (27)
R8-13- work even (27)
R14- *8sc, inc* (30)
R15- *4sc, inc* (36)
R16-31- work even (36)
R32- *5sc, inc* (42)
R33-34- work even (42)
R35- *6sc, inc* (48)
R36-40- work even (48)
R41- *6sc, dec* (42)
R42- work even (42)
R43- *5sc, dec* (36)
R44-45- work even (36)
R46-*4sc, dec* (30)
R47-work even (30)
R48- *3sc, dec* (24)
Stuff body, there will be a large hole, the tail will cover this later.

Horns (G hook, black yarn)
Round1- 4sc in ring (4)
R2- inc, sc rest (5)
R3- sc2, inc, sc rest, inc last (7)
R4- 3sc, inc, sc 2, inc (9)
R5-10- work even (9)
R11-3sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc (11)
R12-13- work even (11)
R14- 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc (13)
R15-16- work even (13)
R17- 6 sc, inc, sc rest (14)
R18-24- work even (14)
Do not stuff. You can put wire inside to help them curve if you like, they should curve slightly without it though. I have put wire in mine. Sew the opening shut flat.

Arms (make 2, start w/ red yarn, G hook)
Round1- 6 sc in ring (6)
R2- inc, sc 2, inc, sc 2 (8)
R3-11- work even (8) at end of row 11 change to green yarn
R12- sc, inc, inc, inc, dec, dec, (8) The next few rows are putting a curve/bend in the arm for the elbow.
R13- work even (8)
R14- same as row 12 (8)
R15- inc, sc 4, inc, sc 2 (10)
R16-27- work even (10)
Stuff pretty firmly, if you are joining them leave a really long tail to close it up later. You will attach the arms to the body with the safety eyes/joints then dec around to close. If not making joined arms then continue to row 28 now.
R28- dec around to close up.
Leave tail for sewing on if you are not using joints.

Claws for arms (make 6 with F hook and black yarn)
Chain 5, slp stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in rest of chains ( 1 slip stitch and 3 sc)


Feet (start with black, use G hook)
Toe pattern: In one sc: Dc 5 times, remove hook put into top of 1st dc, grab open loop of 5th dc and slip stitch to connect behind the toe (part away from you) and then sc in next stitch. 
Stuff as you go.
Round1- 6 sc in ring (6)
R2- *inc* (12)
R3- *sc, inc* (18)
R4- *2sc, inc* (24)
R5- sc 2, toe, sc 2, toe, sc 2, toe, sc 14 (24) 
R6- work even (24) change to red
R7-8- work even (24)
R9- *sc 4, dec* (20)
R10- work even (20)
R11- *sc 8, dec* (18)
R12- work even (18)
R13- *sc 7, dec* (16)
R14- *sc 6, dec* (14)
R15- sc even (14)
R16- *5sc, dec* (12)
R17-20- work even
R21- *dec* (6)
Flatten top closed so it is parallel with toes and sc shut (this will let it bend/swing at the knee, if you don't want this then don't sc across top.)

Thigh/upper leg portion (make 2 with green yarn and G hook)
Stuff as you go and stuff it lightly so that it can be slightly flattened, otherwise the legs will look fat.
Round1-  6 sc in ring (6)
R2- *inc* (12)
R3-5- work even (12)
R6- *sc, inc* (18)
R7-9- work even (18)
R10- *sc 5, inc* (21)
R11-12- work even (21)
R13- *6sc, inc* (24)
R14-15- work even (24)
R16- *4sc, inc* (30)
R17- work even (30)
R18- *5sc, inc* (36)
R19- *6sc, inc* (42)
R20- *5sc, dec* (36)
R21- *4sc, dec* (30)
R22- work even (30)
R23- *3sc, dec* (24)
R24- work even (24)
R25- *2sc, dec* (18)
R26- *1 sc,dec* (12)
R27- *dec* (6)
Sew opening shut.

Tail (make 1 with green yarn, G hook)
Stuff as you go.
Round1- 6 sc in ring (6)
R2- *inc* (12)
R3- *2sc, inc* (16)
R4-20- work even (16)
R21- *7sc, inc* (18)
R22-25- work even (18)
R26- *3sc, inc* sc last 2 sc (22)
R27-33- work even (22)
R34- *4sc, inc* sc in last 2 sc (26)
R35-37- work even (26)
R38- *5sc, inc* sc last 2 ( 30)
R39-43- work even (30)
R44- *6sc, inc* sc last 2 (34)
R45-46- work even
Finish stuffing, leave end open, leave long tail for sewing to body. You will fit the tail over the body opening later to sew it on.

Tail end grabby spike thingys (start w/ black and G hook)

Large spike (make 1)
Round1- 4 sc in ring (4)
R2- inc, sc 4 (5)
R3- sc, Inc, sc, inc, sc (7)
R4-6- work even (7)
R7- 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (9)
R8- work even (9)
R9- sc 4, inc, sc 3, inc (11) change to red
R10- work even (11)
R11- 5 sc, inc, sc rest (12)
R12- work even (12)
R13- sc, inc, sc rest (13) change to green yarn
R14- work even (13)
Stuff firmly, leave long tail for sewing.

Small spikes (make 2)
Round1- 4 sc in ring (4)
R2- inc, sc 4 (5)
R3- sc, Inc, sc, inc, sc (7) change to red
R4-6- work even (7)
R7- 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (9) change to green
R8- work even
Stuff firmly, leave long tail for sewing.

Nose spot (make 1 with gold yarn and G hook)
Round1- 6 sc in ring (6)
R2- *inc* (12)
R3- *sc, inc* (18)
R4- *2 sc, inc* (24)
Slip stitch to smooth out shape, leave long tail for sewing.

Chin triangle thing (make 1 with G hook, red yarn)
Worked in rows. ch 1 and turn at end of each row.
Row1-Chain 6, sc 5 (5)
Row2- dec, sc rest (4)
R3- dec, dec (2)
R4-dec (1)
leave long tail for sewing

Spikes for neck, body and tail (I made 17 but make as many or as few as you like, F hook, green yarn)
Worked in rows, ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
Row1- ch 4, sc 3 (3)
R2- dec, sc (2)
R3- dec (1)
leave long tail for sewing

Weird Leg rectangle things
Worked in rows, ch1 and turn at the end of each row.
Small weird leg rectangle (make 2 with green yarn, F hook)
Row1- ch 5, sc 4 (4)
R2- 7- work even (4)
Fold in half long way (so that row 1 and row 7 are touching) and sc all around. leave long tail for sewing.

Large weird leg rectangle (make 2 with green yarn, F hook)
Row1- ch 5, sc 4 (4)
R2- 17- work even (4)
Fold in half long way (so that row 1 and row 17 are touching) and sc all around. leave long tail for sewing.


Assembly
*after making body secure cat/reptile safety eyes
*use eye placement to help you place arms and horns.
*Sew claws to arms
*Attach feet to upper leg/thigh
*attach thigh to body
*attach tail to body
*Sew grabby spike things to end of tail
*sew on little spikes onto head, neck, tail as desired
*sew weird rectangle things onto top of legs
*sew nose circle on
*embroider mouth










 

5 comments:

  1. awww! He looks so cute when he is crotched!

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  2. Thanks! I hope I can make more Pacific Rim stuff in the future!

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  3. Where can I find those cat eye safety toy eyes? I have looked around shops but haven't found any. I don't want to have to get them online either!

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    Replies
    1. Hmm I bought those a really long time ago so I'm not super sure but if you are in the US try calling places like Joann's, pat catans, michaels. If they don't have them inquire if they can order some in for you. Walmart might have them but that's a stretch. If you can't find them there and you have to get them online try etsy, you'll be able to get just a few and shipping will be cheap. Hope that helps, good luck with your search!

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