Kyogre Crochet Plush Pattern

Here's one I've been meaning to finish up for a while, since ORAS was announced! This pattern should work up pretty quickly and doesn't need much yarn, I made mine out of scraps. Fun fact: it rained or stormed nearly every day I worked on this, somewhat weird/funny. Anyways hope you guys enjoy, only a few more months till the remakes! Approx 17 inch wing/flipper span, 10.5 inches from nose to tail stub



Let me know if you have any questions or find any mistakes/errors, I typed this one up pretty quick and only went over it once.


The following pattern was written and designed by me and is copyrighted. You may not sell or reproduce this pattern in any way. Do not claim this pattern or plush as your own design. You may not transmit or distribute this pattern by any means. You may not sell this pattern. You may not sell what you make from this pattern. Please respect this, I spent a very long time designing this bag and pattern, there is a great deal of effort and love put into this. Thank you very much for your understanding.

Read pattern carefully before starting, particularly the instructions at the beginning of the pattern. There are also many tips throughout the pattern and in the assembly section that will help you when making different pieces, be sure to read those too!


Materials:

* Blue worsted weight yarn (less than 1 skein, prob closer to half or 3/4 a skein) You might want to use a slightly darker blue than I did, it's just what I had lying around.

* White worsted weight yarn (small amount)

* Small amount of red yarn

*very small amounts of black and yellow yarn

*Large yarn needle for sewing pieces together

* F hook and G hook

*Straight pins for pinning pieces on before sewing them on

* Optional: invisible thread for sewing on arm markings, see assembly section for more info

Some pieces are worked with TWO strands of yarn together. You may do this by taking the strand on the outside of the skien and the one which comes from the inside of the skien together. Crochet with two strands the same way you would crochet if you had only one. This will yield a bigger plush faster and with less effort than crocheting with only one strand. 


Note: there is no gauge for this pattern. The only thing that is important is that you have a tight stitch when crocheting. If you use the recommended hooks it should be fine but if you are someone who crochets more loosely you may want to reduce the hook size accordingly.


This pattern is worked in rounds (unless otherwise noted) and may use the following techniques/abbreviations:
Sc- single crochet
inc- increase
dec- decrease, particularly you should use the invisible decrease if you know how to do it
sc in each sc or work even- single crochet in each single crochet, don't add any increases or decreases
R- round or row
Ch- chain
hdc- half double crochet
hdc inc- increase using hdc
hdc dec- decrease using hdc
# sc or sc #- for example 5 sc or sc 5 both mean to crochet in the next 5 sc, with one single crochet in each.
Repeat (*)- repeat what is between the asterisks * until you come to the end of the round, unless otherwise indicated
ring- magic ring. If you cannot do this technique then you may substitute this: ch 2 and sc however many were supposed to go in the ring into the second ch. However this will leave a small hole in the piece, this is why the magic ring is preferred, it leaves no visible hole. Many tutorials on how to do the magic ring are available online.

The numbers in parenthesis at the end of each row are the number of stitches you should have when that row is done. Mark the start of each round with a marker and move this marker as you complete rows/rounds.


Body (Make using G hook and 2 strands of blue yarn held together as one)
Round 1: 6sc in ring (6)
R2: *inc* (12)
R3- *sc, inc* (18)
R4- *2sc, inc* (24)
R5-6 sc in each sc (24)
R7- * 3sc, inc* (30)
R8-11- sc in each sc (30)
R12- * 4 sc, inc* (36)
R13- sc in each sc (36)
R14- *5 sc, inc* (42)
R15-19- sc in each sc (42)
R20- *6 sc,inc* (48)
R21- *6sc, dec* (42)
R22-23- sc in each sc (42)
R24- *12 sc, dec* (39)
R25- *11 sc, dec* (36)
R26- *10 sc, dec* (33)
R27- * 9 sc, dec* (30)
R28- * 3 sc, dec* (24)
R29-  *6 sc, dec * (21) begin stuffing
R30-32- sc in each sc (21)
R33- * 5 sc, dec* (18)
R34- sc in each sc (18)
R35- * 4 sc, dec* (15)
R36- * 3 sc, dec* (12)
R37- sc in each sc (12)
R38- * 2 sc, dec* (9)
R39- sc in each sc (9)
R40- * 1 sc, dec* (6)
Finish stuffing and  close up.

Really imp info for making all appendages/pieces! Make sure you make all tails of yarn long when you start and finish so that you have enough yarn to weave it through the arm, fin, ect back into the body to hide it.

Arms/Big flipper things (make 2 with blue yarn and F hook, 1 strand of yarn)
These pieces are made with only one strand of yarn and are also made in rows!
ch 1 and turn at the end of each row
Row1- ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each after (20 sc total)
R2-5 sc in each sc (20)
R6- dec, sc in rest (19)
R7-9 sc in each sc (19)
R10- dec, sc in rest (18)
R11-12- sc in each sc (18)
R13- dec, sc in rest (17)
R14-15- sc in each sc (17)
R16-dec, sc rest (16)
R17-18- sc in each sc (16)
R19- dec, sc in rest (15)
R20- sc in each sc (15)
R21- dec, sc across, dec across last 2 stitches (13)
R22- dec, sc across, dec across last 2 stitches (11)
R23- dec, sc across, dec across last 2 stitches (9)
R24-26- sc in each sc (9)
R27- dec, sc across, dec across last 2 stitches (7)
R28- sc in each sc (7)
R29- dec, sc across, dec across last 2 stitches (5)
sc around out side of arm to smooth out the shape. Leave long tail for sewing onto body later.

Tail ribbon things (make 2 with F hook and 1 strand of yarn)
These are worked in rows with only one strand of yarn
First we are going to make the side of the tail, the part that is attached to the body and runs parallel to the arms. Then we will make the two little ribbon parts that trail behind the tail and run parallel with the body. I made a diagram to go along with this part to make it easier to understand, please find it at the end of this section to help you.
Ch1 and turn at the end of each row

First you are making part A in the diagram
Row1- ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each after (5sc total)
R2-21- sc in each sc (5) do NOT cut yarn.

Now we are making the shorter trailing parts, you will first be making part B in the diagram.
Row 1 of trailing piece- Chain 1 and turn the piece you just made so you can sc 6 along the side of the piece you were just working on, specifically the long side of the piece. See pictures to help you. (Alternately you can just make these little tail parts separately (start out by ch 7, sc in each to get 6 sc and follow the rest of the pattern. Then you will have to sew them on, I'm lazy and try to avoid extra sewing.)
Row2-18- sc in each sc (6)
now we will make the little split part at the end of the tail ribbon.
Row 19-Sc 3, leave rest of stitches unworked. (3) See diagram
R20-23 sc in each sc (3) see diagram for help
Now slip stich back down to row 18 and sc 3 across (the three stitches you left unworked in row 19) (3) the part you will make now is labeled 'repeat'
Now repeat rows 20-23.
After that slip stitch back down the entire length of part B (the part parallel with body) until you reach the part parallel with the arms (the first part you made, part A). Slip stitch 5 to the left on that part then sc 6 (6) this is the start of part C, the second tail ribbon
Now repeat rows 2-23 above to make the other trailing ribbon tail with the split in it. Once done you can slip stitch down the length of the trailing ribbon piece to the base again and then slip stitch along the part parallel with the body all the way to the end. This way you won't have any yarn tails when you sew this part on!

Diagram to help you with making tail ribbons, excuse my terrible handwriting

Chin (Make 1 with 1 strand of yarn and F hook)
Worked in rows, ch 1 and turn after each row
Row 1- ch 17, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch after (16 sc total)
R2-sc in each sc (16)
R3- dec, sc in rest (15)
R4- dec, sc in rest (14)
R5- dec, sc in rest (13)
R6- dec, sc in rest (12)
R7- dec, sc in rest (11)
R8- dec, sc in rest (10)
R9- dec, sc in rest (9)
R10- dec, sc in rest (8)
R11- dec, sc in rest (7)
R12- dec, sc in rest (6)
R13- dec, sc, sc, dec (4)
R14- dec, dec (2)
Now working in the round sc around the outside of the piece two times.
Now change to red yarn and sc around the outside once more (for a total of 3 times, 2 times with white yarn and one time with red). Leave long tail for sewing later

Claws (make 8 with F hook and 1 strand of white yarn)
These are worked in the round, you will be crocheting around the chain you make. Note that I made these 'hollow' so that you can hide yarn tails in them (the yarn from sewing the claws on as well as the yarn from the red arm markings).
Round 1- ch 5, inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc, sc, put 3 sc in next chain. Now work along the back of the chains. sc, sc, and sc in the last stitch so that it should now have 3 sc in it (10 sc)
R2-6- sc in each sc (10)
Finish off, leave tail for sewing.

Chin fins/spikes (make 2 with white yarn and F hook, 1 strand of yarn)
Worked in rows, ch 1 and turn after each row. Start off with a long tail so you can sew it on later.
Row1- ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each after (4sc total)
R2- dec, dec (2)
R3- dec (1)
Finish off, leave long tail to weave in later.

Belly stripes (make 2 with F hook and 1 strand of white yarn)
Worked in rows
Row1- ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each after (20 sc total)
Finish off, leave tail for sewing.

Back/dorsal fins (Make 2 with blue and F hook, 1 strand of yarn)
Worked in rows, ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. Start out with long tail to use for sewing on later.
Row1- ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each after (6sc total)
R2- sc in each sc (6)
R3- dec, sc 4 (5)
R4- sc 3, dec (4)
R5- dec, sc 2 (3)
R6- sc, dec (2)
R7- dec (1)
Sc down from the top to the base along the side that has all the dec in it to smooth it out a little, this is optional. Leave long tail to either sew or weave into body. Attach red yarn at one side of the base and sc up one side then down the other and finish off. Don't sc across the bottom, the bottom of the fin (the part that will touch the body) should be blue. See pictures if you need clarification.

Eyes (make 2, use F hook and 1 strand of yarn) Can also make these out of felt if you like.
Worked in the round.
Start with yellow
Round1- 4 sc in ring, pull ring closed/tight and shape into a half circle (4) Finish off.
Round 2- attach black, sc in each sc (4) finish off.
R3- attach red, inc in each sc (8) then sc across the top (flat part). Finish off, leave tail for sewing.
Embroider eye with small amount of black.

Big head spots (make 2 with 1 strand of white yarn and F hook) Can also be made from felt
These are worked in the round, you will be crocheting around the chain you make.
R1-Ch9, Inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, put 3 sc into the ch at the end, working around the other side sc 6, sc in last stitch (it should now have 3 sc total in it. (18)
R2-slip stitch, slip stich, sc, hdc in next 4 stitches, sc, slip stitch in next 3 stitches, sc, hdc in next 4 stitches, sc, slip stitch
Finish off, leave long tail for sewing (18)

Little head spots (make 2 with 1 strand of white yarn and F hook) can also make from felt
These are worked in the round, you will be crocheting around the chain you make.
R1- ch 5, inc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 2, put 3 sc in next stitch, sc 2, sc in last so it should have 3 sc total in it now (10)
Finish off, leave tail for sewing

Arm markings 
I tried embroidering these but couldn't get the top and bottom to look even so I made the designs separately and sewed them on. See assembly for tips on how to sew these on. If for some reason your lines don't look right feel free to shorten or lengthen them, everyone crochets differently! 

For each of these it's important to start  and end with a very long tail of yarn so you can weave it through the design and pull the tail into the hollow part of the claws to hide it.

Circle (make 4 of these using 1 strand red and G hook)
ch 36, join with end to form circle. Finish off, leave long tail for sewing

Outside lines (make 8 of these, red yarn, 1 strand G hook)
ch 14 finish off

Inside lines (make 8 of these, red yarn , 1 strand G hook)
ch 9, finish off

Short middle connecting line (horizontal line) (make 4 of these, red yarn, 1 strand, G hook)
ch 4, finish off.





Assembly (pin pieces on first to see if you like the position)

1. sew chin piece to body/head, when you sew it on be sure to pin it tightly and stretch it out over the head so it doesn't look bumpy
2. sew arms to body
3. sew claws to arms
4. sew tail ribbons on
5. sew dorsal/back fins on
6. sew chin fins on
7. sew eyes on
8. sew spots on head
9. sew belly stripes on, I curved mine just slightly
10. embroider red belly markings (the ones that connect to the back fins) see pictures for help
11. sew on arm markings, You could also sew these on with invisible thread (it's sort of like fishing line) (weave all your red yarn tails through the arm marking and into the hollow claws to hide them)
• I started with the top side of the arm first. Sew on the circle. 
• Then sew on the outside lines, sew them on so they sort of zig zag or curve, see picture for help.
• Sew on the inside lines, these are sewn on straight
• sew on the short connecting horizontal line
• Flip the arm over and sew on the next circle, you should be able to see where you sewed on the circle on the top of the fin, use this to help you position the bottom circle and other markings. If you place them directly above one another it will hide your sewing.
• Finish the bottom arm marking as you did the top and repeat all for the other arm.